Few would imagine that Syria could be a 'rewarding' tourist destination in 2019.
But that's how intrepid traveller James Bingham described his trip to the war-torn country, which he visited a few weeks ago, taking in the cities of Damascus, Homs, Aleppo and Unesco World Heritage Site Palmyra.
Powerful photographs he took there show obliteration on a huge scale - collapsed buildings, rubble-strewn roads and gigantic craters left by bombs. But also glimmers of hope - a once-ruined hotel welcoming guests again, a damaged mosque restored to its former glory and smiling children.
Syria has been in violent turmoil since 2011 when country-wide protests against President Bashar al-Assad turned into full-scale civil war between government forces and rebel militias.
Amid the chaos, terrorist groups rose up, the most notorious being Isis.
Funded by money from oil production, smuggling and kidnapping ransoms, it took control of vast swathes of territory in Syria and imposed a brutal regime on millions, with mass executions and crucifixions chilling hallmarks of its reign of terror.
Several cities fell to the group, including Raqqa and Palmyra, where it vandalised highly valuable antiquities.
The last of the group’s fighters were finally driven out of the region this year by a U.S backed alliance.
The downfall of Isis gave Bingham the confidence to book a trip to Syria, to explore the country’s ‘people and cultural history’.
In fact, he said, ‘although still an active conflict zone many areas are now under government control and relatively safe’.
For the trip, he decided to travel alone and employed the services of a local guiding agency called Golden Target Syria to ensure he was safe.
He said the firm was 'very reliable and trustworthy' and sorted all of his permits and a visa in advance.
He journeyed from London to Beirut in Lebanon with Middle East Airlines, and from there the agency arranged for him to meet a private driver and guide to cross the border to Damascus in Syria. He said he collected his visa for Syria when he entered the country.
For Palmyra, special permits are required - Bingham’s access to the archaeological site was only approved two days before he visited.
And Idlib in the northwest remained off-limits because of ongoing fighting there.
For those hoping to retrace his steps, Bingham notes that you cannot enter Syria with an Israeli stamp in your passport.
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The adventurer added: 'Once inside Syria there are dozens of military checkpoints and having a local fixer to negotiate your way through these makes good sense.’
When it came to packing, Bingham said he packed his normal travel gear as you can 'dress as you like' in Syria.
He added: 'The country is relatively liberal with Muslims and Christians living side by side. You can wear your normal clothes and blend in without any concerns.'
As he moved around the country with his local guide and private driver, Bingham captured some truly haunting images, with residents trying to get on with life as best they can.
One of Bingham's shots, taken in Aleppo, shows a group of young children smiling for the camera, despite their bleak surroundings.
In the ravaged city of Homs, he said he visited the Khalid ibn al-Walid mosque, which was recently renovated following a multi-million dollar restoration.
And in the capital, Damascus, Bingham's guide insisted that he visit the Damascus flower show, which had just reopened following an extended nine-year break because of the conflict.
Bingham said it proved to be one of the highlights and he was treated to free entry and later introduced to the Deputy Minister for Tourism in Syria.
After getting his last-minute permit to visit the ancient Roman city of Palmyra he went on to photograph precious artefacts dating back thousands of years that are now in pieces after being blown up by Isis.
London-based Bingham, 44, told MailOnline Travel that the town had a population of over 50,000 before the Isis reign of terror, but is now 'pretty much empty and very badly damaged'.
He added: 'A few people appear to have returned. A boy asked for water and I spoke to another family who had food supplies from the UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees).
'But it really is just another ghost town, with houses, shops and restaurants all empty, ransacked or in ruins.
'The museum at Palmyra is very badly damaged and no longer receives visitors. The display cases are smashed, walls peppered with bullet holes, most of the artefacts are gone and some lay smashed on the floor.’
Bingham’s accommodation, in Syria, meanwhile, came as a pleasant surprise.
In Damascus, he discovered a 'beautiful historic riad' - the Beit al-Mamlouka Hotel - in the old town with 'fantastic staff', while in Aleppo he checked into an old hotel - the Dar Halabia Hotel - that had been commandeered by Isis in the war.
Bingham said: 'The place had just reopened again after being returned to its rightful owners, who had carried out extensive repairs.
'Unfortunately, much of the area surrounding the hotel was very badly damaged.
'There was still no electricity, internet or hot water, but it was good to be one of the first guests back at the hotel, supporting the owners a little as they tried to rebuild their business.'
So how would he sum everything up?
The traveller said that the warm welcome he received from Syrians was the thing that will stick with him.
He said: 'My visit to Syria was one of the most humbling yet rewarding experiences of my life.
'I learned that it is one of the most beautiful and incredible countries in the world. In spite of the war, there is so much to see and learn and it is a country of many contrasts.
'There are still many challenges and the conflict is not over. But it feels like things are improving and I was made to feel very welcome everywhere I went.
'There is incredible devastation but among the bombed-out ruins, people are starting to rebuild where they can.
'Young children often stopped me asking for their photos to be taken. I could never imagine how hard their lives must have been, but they always had time to share a story and smile for the camera.
'I played table football with some of them in Aleppo and drank tea with locals who were always happy to share what little they had with me.
'Even the soldiers I met were welcoming.
'I really hope to visit again and see some of my new Syrian friends in the not-too-distant future. Specialist travel company Untamed Borders has now added Syria back on its itinerary, which gives me hope things are improving.'
It's not the first time Bingham has set foot in a war-torn country and he is used to taking precautionary measures to ensure his trips are as safe as possible.
In 2015 he helped establish the Afghanistan Marathon and closer to home, he founded a 135-mile ultra-marathon called the Ring O' Fire, which will take place in Angelsey, North Wales, at the end of August.
He says his next adventurous trip will involve skiing through the wilds of Iran next winter.
